🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked high among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.