Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
